After a fun and delicious welcome dinner with our fellow sailing families last night, we woke up at Odyseas Marina Yacht Club in Meganisi. What a perfect spot. Since we were docked stern in, it was so easy to walk off the boat across the gang plank straight into the covered outdoor restaurant for iced espressos, flat whites, smoothies and avocado toast with poached eggs to start the day off right. It was a bee-autiful breakfast, with everything being perfect except we were swarmed by wasps. We could see a supermarket across from the marina, so after breakfast Riley and I promptly escaped the bees and grabbed our shopping basket headed in that direction to replenish supplies like water, ice, milk, fruit, cheese and chips.
We took it easy this morning and truly enjoyed our time on Meganisi. But by mid-morning we were anxious to be on the water and see what the Ionian Islands had in store for us today. At first there was little or no wind so we motored away from Maganisi for a little while, but just happy to be exploring new territory and seeing the beauty of the teal Ionian sea, blue skies and mountainous landscapes with little beaches tucked here and there.
Eventually we came across enough wind to raise the sails, with an eager and well coordinated crew.
After we cut the engine and were able to feel the soft breeze and hear the sound of the lapping water as we sailed through the sea, Riley eagerly took over the helm with Matt's guidance on how to use technology combined with the intuition of wind and watching the sails. Riley said to Matt, "okay, where are we going?", to which he responded "nowhere".
That's the best part of the day. No agenda and no schedule. We had somewhere to be which was eventually, approximately, sort of the island of Kalamos, but whenever. The girls were happy to settle into this speed. April made lunch for everyone (tuna salad wraps) and the girls helped with crewing, journaling, some card games, and some chilling.
After a few hours of meandering through the sea with a few tacks, we decided to start heading towards Asprogiali beach on Kalamos island which had been recommended by our floatilla leader. When we arrived we were awestruck with the beauty. It is rumoured to have been Jackie O's favorite beach and we could clearly see why.
Once anchored (followed by high fives), it took no time at all for us to jump into the water. Matt and Bill geared up with snorkels and masks to explore what discoveries awaited them below the surface of the sea. They found some simple fish and seagrass, and an interesting seashell.
Meanwhile April & Fiona played on a SUP board, with seemingly endless giggles and splashes.
Knowing my and Matt's love for drinking painkillers while on sailing vacations (from our days vacationing in BVI), Bill & Riley had thoughtfully smuggled supplies onto the boat to surprise us: pineapple juice, orange juice, coconut cream, rum and grated nutmeg. While the guys were snorkeling Riley mixed them up for a cool refreshment for when they came back to the boat. With excitement and anticipation, much like a kid in a candy store, after Bill's first sip he said "it tastes different". We all took a few sips and agreed there was something very unusual about the flavour, which we described as "spicy". It turns out instead of nutmeg they had accidentally bought cayenne pepper! We still drank them, embracing the unique flavour, and decided they are the new "Greek Caesars".
Eventually Riley and I went for a SUP board to explore the surreal shoreline (which happened to be while Matt was playing with the drone). We made our way the short distance over to Jackie's beach, which was a tiny beach by comparison to anything you normally see, with nothing on shore but an old trailer, a rusty sign, an old Greek couple with an umbrella and a rocky beach leading out to crystal clear seawater.
Once we were all back on board after multiple rounds of "just one more" dip in the sea, we prepared our boat, raised the anchor, and took off towards the marina further south on the east side of Kalamos where we planned to spend the night. By this time we had received text messages from our floatilla crew that the marina was "very busy, possibly full, and very windy" and that anyone nervous should anchor elsewhere. Matt is never nervous, but me, eek! With the dockmaster George in his dinghy, he directed us inside the marina to where we would tie up our boat to the side of another catamaran from our floatilla since there were no slips available. Truly not for the faint of heart! But like a pro crew (but not without some jitters) with an expert captain we glided up, against all odds of the wind, next to the boat and tied up. This time the high fives were shared with the crew on the other boat. And then it was time to crack open the Italian grapefruit gin that we brought from Amalfi, along with the lemons we brought from our property in Amalfi. Yum! What a reward.
While the adults sat in the salon with our refreshing gins in the early evening sun, our floatilla leader Grant (owner of NauticEd) took the girls for a spin in the marina with his stepdaughter, their new BFF Hannah from Austin TX, in his dingy (being expertly driven by Hannah's twin brother Noah).
Then we all crawled off our boat, onto the next boat, then onto shore to go for dinner in the small seaside village of Kalamos. We ate on a lovely waterside patio at "George's Restaurant" (yes, the same George as the dockmaster). We were liberal with our ordering of appetizers for the table, taking a chance with some. And every single dish was amazing! Fresh, simple, authentic and delicious. Stuffed vine leaves, tzatziki, grilled feta, honeyed feta in phylo pastry, and aubergine (eggplant) saganaki. All 3 of the kids (Hannah being our adopted child for the night) asked for seconds of all the appetizers. Our entrees were simple, not excessive, and just as delicious.
With so many places we planned to be on this trip, all of them fabulous, we have found the pleasure of going nowhere is the best joy of all. Eventually you end up somewhere with the memories of a great day.
With happy bellies and hearts and memories of a magical day,
Laura, Matt, April, Fiona, Bill & Riley (and Hannah who is having a sleepover tonight) 🕶
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